Minding the heat in Phnom Penh

We've arrived in Phnom Penh, Cambodia after a smooth 7-hour bus ride and a surprisingly uneventful border crossing. We were overwhelmed by the intensity of the moto drivers who swarmed us when we arrived, trying to get their next fare. They were pretty relentless, but we made it through the crowd in one piece and managed to find a nice hotel about two blocks away that has air conditioning (it's essential considering that it's about 35 C during the day and doesn't really cool off at night). 

We wandered around the central part of the city until dusk. There is a lot of green space near the riverfront. We saw the Liberation Monument, which commemorates the defeat of the Khmer Rouge in 1979, and Independence Monument, which celebrates Cambodia's independence from France. But the best part of our walk was seeing the mass groups of locals doing aerobics in the park to music. We admire how exercise is such an integral part of daily life in Southeast Asia. Every day, in either the early morning or late afternoon, many people gather to play badminton or Thai football, do aerobics or simply go for a vigorous walk. It's really inspiring.  

The other interesting local activity we observed was some kind of Buddhist celebration on the riverfront where people were gathered to pray in small temples, placing incense sticks and beautiful fresh flowers in small temples while traditional musicians played live music.  

For dinner, we found a local restaurant and enjoyed a yummy Khmer dish consisting of rice noodles with coconut curry. It was served with a huge bowl of fresh herbs, pickles and cold tea. Yummy!  

Since we had to get up at 6 am to catch the bus, we're pretty wiped and ready for bed. Tomorrow, it's off to the Killing Fields and the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (S21) to learn more about the genocide that took place here only 31 short years ago, wiping out almost 1/3 of the population.

Markets Afloat

We just finished the second day of our two-day Mekong Delta tour and are enjoying a nice dinner near our hotel in District 1 of Saigon. Although our tour was jam-packed with tourists, we met a lot of nice people and enjoyed boating down the Mekong River. We got to see how they make rice noodles the traditional way, we walked through a tropical fruit orchard and crossed what is called the Monkey Bridge, which is essentially one large bamboo stalk spanning a small pond. On our way back to the city, we saw the Buu Long Pagoda, a beautiful yet strangely placed structure on a busy highway surrounded by Buddha statues and flowers.   

Having sampled local banana rice wine and red wine over the last two nights, we'll likely avoid doing so tonight as we have to get up before 6 am to catch our long bus ride to Phnom Penh. Cambodia awaits us and we can't wait...

Saigon - A city of many faces

As we drive along the roads in our completely unnecessary cushy sleeper bus, we watch daily Vienamese life unfold. People lounge lazily in their stores awaiting their next customers. Men herd cattle across the busy roads as vehicles kindly swerve to avoid them. Hoards of school children with their crisp white, navy blue and red uniforms gather at the end of another school day, bound for home. Women in conical hats brave the afternoon heat to sell the wares they carry in baskets precariously balanced on their shoulders. And motorbikes galore cram the streets, making use of every available inch of asphalt to hurry to their next destination. It's organized chaos, but it works.

In Saigon, we stayed with a family in their small guesthouse. In fact, they only have one room to rent out. Their flat is down a side alley off of one of the main tourist streets. We found it when the woman of the house greeted us as we descended the bus, asking in broken English if we needed a room. The family sleeps downstairs in an area that also serves as their kitchen and living space. The family consists of  a husband and wife, their son who is disabled and cannot walk or talk, and their grandson, who is two years old. Their other two sons live nearby and one just got married on March 10. The mother proudly showed us a special photo album of her newly married son and his wife in various poses and wedding outfits. It's customary for a married couple to dress up in various wedding costumes, including the actual bridal gown and tuxedo before the actual wedding day and have their photos taken. We've seen many couples doing this in almost every major city park we've passed in Vietnam. 

Although our room was a little noisy since our window cannot close and faces the busy alley below, we really liked the experience of sharing space with this very kind family. They were excited that we stayed for three nights.

Yesterday, we did an organized tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels, a famous Vietnamese War landmark. Used as a hideout for local people, a military post and a communications hub, its intricate network of underground tunnels span some 250 km and are organized into three depths, each built for specific purposes, whether it be daily life, preparing for battle or hiding from the enemy. Although the trip was very touristic and we felt a bit like herded cattle as we were shuttled from sight to sight, it was still impressive to see and imagine what the war was like. And a highlight was having the opportunity to crawl through one of the narrow tunnels (Netty required Aki's moral support to make it through just one small stretch of the pitch black claustrophobia-inducing passages). Considering that the Vietnamese are smaller than the average Westerner and even though they enlarged the size of the tunnels to accommodate tourists, it was still pretty narrow. 

That afternoon, we went to the War Remnants Museum, a propaganda-filled recount of the Vietnam War and it's aftermath. The curators didn't leave out any of the gory details. The images and stories on display are chilling and the mood imbues a feeling of how horrible war can be.         

Today, we embarked on a two-day Mekong Delta tour. Our first day was spent cruising the Mekong River and making various stops to observe village industries, including the making of coconut candy and honey. We also enjoyed tropical fruits, traditional music and cycling on Unicorn Islands. We're spending the night in Can Tho, which is one of the bigger cities in the Mekong Delta. Tomorrow, we'll check out the popular floating markets along the river and head back to Saigon around suppertime. The following day, we're off to Phnom Penh, Cambodia, our 7th and final country on this trip.              

Sledding in Mui Ne???

Yes, we escaped the Canadian winter, so to get our fix of wintersport, we went sledding. We had to rent a scooter and drive about 40 km to get to Vietnam's most famous sledding hill. Two young girls awaiting our arrival offered us homemade plastic sleds and after some hard negotiations, we agreed on a price for the rental and were ready to ascend the hill. We were exhausted and out of breath when we reached the top, but at the same time, were exhilarated by the thought of our much-anticipated downhill race. We mounted our sleds, said a final prayer, took a few last-minute pictures and off we went...

As it turns out, sand is not as slippery or as fast as Canadian snow and going downhill was actually not much faster than climbing up the slope. Despite the lack of adrenaline rush, what surrounded us was nature's beauty at its best.

Mui Ne is famous for its red and white sand dunes, which are 10 and 40 km outside the city, respectively. Travelling on our own by scooter was one of the day's highlights as we were able to see so much more than simply the final destination. Apart from the dunes, there is not much else to do in Mui Ne that appeals to us. 

So, tomorrow we take a bus to Vietnam's largest city, Saigon (or Ho Chi Minh City as it's officially known). Less than a week left in this country and then it's off to the last one of our journey.

Dalat on two wheels

Biking by motor power, hiking and biking by human power. We've done it all in the last three days in Dalat. Being greeted by the cool breezes of this elevated hill station was just what we needed. On Sunday, we scaled the three volcanic peaks of the Lian Biang Mountains, one of which is the highest peak in Dalat (close to 2200 m above sea level). Our efforts were rewarded by spectacular views of the Dalat countryside. In hindsight, our guided tour wasn't necessary as the path was clearly marked, but it was nice to have a Vietnamese companion along for the walk.

Yesterday, we chose to trade in our two feet for motorized wheels. We hired two Easy Riders guides to give us a fabulous tour of the countryside on their hogs. Yes, we looked pretty cool. Among other things, we got to go to a silk worm farm and visit a coffee and tea plantation. One of our Easy-Driver guides is a Vietnam War veteran who fought for the southern Vietnamese army as a paratrooper. It was very interesting to chat with him about the war and about Vietnam between the end of the war and the end of the Cold War. Since he fought against the communists from the North, he was sent to a reeducation camp from 1975-77. It was obvious that we were told a watered down version of the tough life he experienced in the reeducation camp.

The next day we went on an organized trip with Groovy Gecko to cycle from Dalat to Mui Ne. After a 1.5-hour van ride to the countryside, we set up our mountain bikes and started cycling uphill. We biked a total of 80 km including a 11 km highspeed descent, which was the highlight of the tour. Just before we reached the highway, we boarded the minivan again and continued to the coastal town of Mui Ne. 

Why Not

As we are writing this blog from Nha Trang, we are enjoying our second "Why Not Bucket" with Red Bull, orange juice, pineapple juice, and, oh yes, local vodka and rum (aka fermented rice).
Why, you might ask! Well, for the following reasons:
1. To recover from yesterday's intense relaxation in a lounge chair on the beach.
2. To celebrate our two amazing fun dives near Hon Mun Island where we enjoyed the views of beautiful corrals and the company of plenty of colourful fish.
3. To reflect on the spectacular black and white images we saw at the photo gallery of Long Thanh. He is one of, if not the most famous Vietnamese photographers. Check out some of his stunning pictures of Vietnamese landscapes and people http://www.elephantguide.com/longthanh/.
4. To toast our survival of cycling amidst Nha Trang's insane rush-hour traffic, sharing the streets with thousands of scooters.
5. To feel 18 again, when fruity alcoholic drinks served in buckets were appealing and so cool.
6. Why the hell not!

Tomorrow it is up at 6 am and off to Dalat.

Idyllic Hoi An

As we are travelling further south the mercury is rising to 30+ and unless we stop for icecold Coffee Saigons we might melt. Fortunately, we found a cute little café (Café Nep) in the heart of old Hoi An. In contrast to previous cities, Hoi An feels quaint and quiet and you can cross the streets without praying. There are no highrise buildings and when strolling through the small streets and tiny alleys you can imagine how it might have looked like 100 years ago (okay, you have to ignore the constant honking in the background and the fact that here and there you have to share sidewalks with scooters). A century ago, Hoi An probably saw less tourists, yet it seems locals and tourists blend fairly well and it is still possible to find food stalls and street kitchens without English menus and without Western fare. 
Tourism drives the economy and vendors can be pushy at times, however, they are by no means aggressive; maybe persistent but the atmosphere is always friendly. Overall the people are helpful and pleasant and we are enjoying our time in Vietnam tremendously.

Next on the itinerary is Nha Trang for a day on the beach and snorkeling or diving.  

Hue, home to Nguyen emperors

We've arrived safely in Hue. What a beautiful city. We spent yesterday touring the Citadel, a beautiful walled in fortification that once housed Vietnam's emperors in the 1800s and early 1900s as Hue used to be the nation's capital. Today we rented bicycles and rode about 30 km to Ming Manh Tomb. It was a gorgeous hot day and cycling was a lovely way to see the city and surrounding countryside. Even though Axel likes to have a map at hand, the nice thing about not exactly knowing where to go is that you come across unexpected sights. Convinced we were on our way to see the first of several tombs around Hue we realized we were wrong when we found a spectacular buddhist cemetery. Similarly, we stopped at a French catholic monastery which was also not on our list. A monk named Dominique took some time and gave us a tour. Eventually and after asking for directions several times we arrived at the Ming Manh tomb built in 1840 and set in a beautiful lush park right next to the Song Huong or Perfume river. 
Once we were back in Hue City we enjoyed a nice bowl of pho together with icecold Vietnamese tea. Tomorrow, it's off to Hoi An.

Next stop - Hue

So, our last day in Hanoi has come to an end. Just got back from back Dong Xuan Market, which is Vietnam's version of the North American shopping mall. Packed to the brim with merchandise, this three-story building sells everything and more. Wandering the streets is a feast for the senses. We strolled down several streets, looking for a place to have lunch. We came across a stall full of people with an array of pots on display near the front. After getting across the message that we didn't want meat, a woman topped off a plate of steaming rice with greens, carrots and lots of tofu - all for less than $1 USD. This is but one example of the wonderful SE Asian meals we've enjoyed. We've sampled many different phos (noodle soups), yet overall, the Vietnamese cuisine is lacking a little in flavour compared to its neighbouring countries. That being said, with rice always on the menu, Netty is a happy traveller.

Tonight, we head to Hue on an overnight bus. More updates to come...

Ha Long Bay beauty

Comprised of limestone cliffs jutting out from the water, Ha Long Bay is a picturesque wonder. Although the weather was unfavourable during our visit (a little foggy and rainy), our little junk wandered the harbour along with many other tourist vessels, allowing us to take in the natural beauty of this landscape. We docked on one cliff and toured a massive cave that was discovered by a fisherman in 1993. We kayaked in the surprisingly warm waters and enjoyed a night sleeping in our own little cabin on the boat. To pass the time, our local tour guide blarred karaoke music for several hours, hoping that the tourists would join in. Karoake singing is a very popular pasttime in Asia and a fascinating spectacle to watch as they take it quite seriously. Fortunately, the music died down on time for us to enjoy our slumber.

Hanoi - Motos, pho and bia hoi

Arriving at night in Hanoi was not the easiest introduction to the city. As we approach the urban lights, we see a local woman running wildly by our bus trying to get the driver's attention. Next thing we know, she's greeting us and enticing us with a taxi to her guest house. We knew the Vietnamese were persistent, but this was over the top. In the end, she (her name is Rose) turned out to be very nice person and we're actually staying at her guest house now. After a few days at another place we reserved that wasn't as hospitable, we ended up here. Celebrating its 1000th year, Hanoi is not a city to be missed on any tour of Vietnam. It is certainly a shock to the senses after visiting a country that in its entirety has the same population as this city. The first night, we ate in children's plastic chairs at a street stall set up at the entrance to a bank after it closed. We savoured our pho (noodle soup) with our knees to our chests, just like the locals. Much of our eating experiences mirror that, with lots of rice on the menu and many interesting locales that add to the authenticity of our experience here. Drinking warm beer on the rocks is certainly an adjustment for Aki, but at $1 a pop, what's a man to do? Bia Hoi is the Vietnamese term for draught beer and it's lauded as the cheapest beer in the world. What a title! If Aki has a say, Beer Lao is still king of SE Asian beers. Playing Atari video games 20 years ago - notably that classic, "Frogger" - has finally paid off by helping us survive the motorcycle-laden streets of Hanoi. The trick is to just walk at a steady pace to cross the street while your heart races and wants to jump out of your chest as motos, cars, bikes and buses whiz by, just barely missing your precious toes. Though it's much better than Cairo, Aki and I both agree. In spite of making sure we have our wits about us when we're wandering the alleys, we really love the vibe this city gives off. We've been to the Temple of Literature, which is a Confucian sanctuary and toted as Vietnam's first university (built in the 11th century). Last evening, we went to a traditional Vietnamese water puppetry performance, very entertaining and very Asian in the live music, colour and themes. Tomorrow, we head to Halong Bay for a two-day boat tour of the spectacular limestone formations. Who knows where our plans will take us next. Wherever it is, we expect the unexpected.

Nation's capital the size of Halifax

Vientiane is not your typical skyscraper capital city. With little more than 300,000 people, it's a small urban space with manageable traffic, making it easy to get around. We've been here for three days now, which is longer than we anticipated, having been grounded by a few stomach issues plaguing Netty. We've had the opportunity to explore the city, seeing Patuxai, Vientiane's Arc de Triomphe replica. There's a sign attached to the structure claiming that it's a monster of concrete, especially up close. What a nice way to describe what is considered a tourist site. We also had the opportunity to see Laos' most important national monument, Pha That Luang.

The most memorable experience during our stay in Vientiane was by far a visit to the COPE Rehabilitation Center (www.copelaos.org). COPE stands for Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise. The center is one of five in Laos and provides prosthetics and orthotics to those who are victims of traffic accidents, developmental disorders, but mainly victims of UXOs (unexploded ordnances - dropped bombs that never detonated). Apparently, Laos is the most bombed country in the world per capita. Between 1965 and 1976, over 260 million cluster bombs were dropped on Laos (mainly the Ho Chi Minh Trail) by US Air Forces. The shocking fact is that about 30% of cluster bombs never explode on impact. Annually, 460 injuries/casualties in Laos are caused by UXOs. The center we visited has a wonderfully impactful exhibition of the effects of UXOs as well as the work this organization is doing to help any people in need of orthotics and prosthetics.

Tonight, we take a long, long bus ride to Hanoi to start our journey through Vietnam. We're not looking forward to the ride, but welcome the arrival at our next destination...